The reason I wanted to upgrade our Daily Dose formula was because I was tired of hearing that Vitamin C doesn’t “work”. To be fair, for those of us with melanin-rich skin—that skepticism was valid. Most of us, including myself, have either seen absolutely no change or, worse, experienced irritation, stinging, or new pigmentation after using. But here’s the real reason why so many Vitamin C serums have failed us before…
Two reasons your Vitamin C serum doesn’t “work”:
- The form of Vitamin C it uses
- The way it’s delivered into your skin
Most conventional Vitamin C serums rely on forms like L-ascorbic acid, which need a low pH to stay stable. That acidity can be irritating—especially for melanin-rich skin—and often comes without the support of calming or barrier-strengthening ingredients. That’s a recipe for redness, stinging, or even post-inflammatory pigmentation.
Then there’s the matter of stability. Some Vitamin C forms are highly unstable and degrade quickly when exposed to light, air, or water—meaning by the time you apply it, the ingredient may have already lost its power. And not all forms penetrate well. Water-soluble forms, for instance, can struggle to get through the lipid-rich outer layer of skin, so brands often force absorption by using low pH which can lead to stinging, irritation, or post-inflammatory pigmentation, especially in melanin-rich skin.
In short: even a good ingredient, delivered poorly, won’t deliver results.
When properly stabilized and bioavailable, here’s what Vitamin C can do:
- Brighten dullness and visibly even skin tone
- Support collagen production for firmer, smoother skin
- Defend against free radicals from pollution and UV exposure
- Help prevent oxidative stress that contributes to premature aging
